Wednesday 4 February 2009

What I did on my holiday

I have been away for a few days, and did a little exploring of good eating places. They do involve a little drive, but often are well worth it.
I for one am really disappointed in the gastro pubs that have broken out like a rash across the country. The pubs look nice from the outside, but the tell tale computer designed sign swinging from the front of the building often give the first hint of the lack of substance within. The menus seem generic, and an insult to the chefs cooking them. Some, however have got the mix right. These buildings are normally old, and some have been restored with care and love, others made to look older than they are, with more beams than they need and fake wood and even stone. Being a country girl I still can't understand why one would hang a hand plough from the ceiling, or have a saddle perched over a beam under which you sit for a three course meal. Others have had a modern look put into an old building. This again can work really well, but can look absolutely awful.
In Peterborough we are blessed with a few gastro pubs, some which seem to think they are marvellous, but if asked about ingredients of things the blank expressions say it all. In surrounding villages we have the honour of having some lovely local and cared for proper pubs. One such is The Red Lion in Warmington. (PE8 6TN) It is run by Tim Stubbs, and has a small restaurant one side and a public bar the other. Tim collects antiques, which are around the place for show and sale. It is a friendly place, the staff have time to chat, making you feel very welcome but never being overpowering. The food is thought about and interesting. For example I had as a starter black pudding on a garlic cream cabbage. My friend had Welsh Rarebit. Both were lovely. Well presented and properly seasoned and great for this time of year and weather. It's not far from the city, but you feel like you are out in the sticks. We went via Folksworth and along a single track country road so you did feel you were just on the edge of the world, but it is sign posted off the A605. I would say it's worth a look, and I shall be reviewing it properly if Jodie and I can get a table!
I also ventured to the Pheasant at Keystone down the A14 half way between Cambridge and Kettering. This was one of the first true gastro pubs, when that wasn't an insulting term. It also used to be a blacksmiths forge, and has open log fires, friendly and efficient staff and lovely food. I was joined by relatives- old fashioned farming folk, who appreciate good food. The Pheasant do a special at lunch time, three course, £15 per head. Unflustered, proper food. Minestrone soup followed by Pheasant and Leek suet pudding. Yumsk. You cannot ask for better.A sweet apple pie with sauce anglaise to finish and we were very happy people. All presented with flair and cooked to perfection. If you find yourself coming back from the M1 or Kettering, then call in. It's a really pretty pub in a lovely village.
A little further out is the Red Lion at Brayfield on the Green. This is in Northamptonshire, near Denton. Really good food, a big menu-19main course dishes, not including the specials, so enough choice for everyone. They do traditional stuff- bangers and mash, steak and chips(hand cut, of course)- and also some interesting, local and seasonal dishes. I had Salmon with black treacle. I know it sounds strange, but it was gorgeous. Succulent, sweet, but bizarrely not treacley. They were busy when we went for lunch- a funeral gathering that had added 20 more people than originally booked. The manager was very apologetic and did everything he could to seat us quickly but away from the group. His obvious love for the job made you feel you were his best customers, and the chefs obviously took great care with the food.
I think good food, in season and cooked for you is one of the best things you can have. I know this recession is hurting us, but is it not better to eat out really well once a month, than eat uncared about food every week? The smaller pubs around need our help, and the people that put in the hours, the work and the love should be rewarded by our patronage.

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